Welcome to the Neighborhood

A year ago, these joints had yet to open; now they are some of our favorite restaurants
By Alia Akkam
(editorial director of TheQNote.com)

On a Saturday morning, the sunlight-drenched dining room of LIC Market fills with locals seeking a taste of chef/owner Alex Schindler’s chicken liver hash or griddled bread pudding. Friends huddle over cups of creamy hot chocolate at Astor Bake Shop later that afternoon. In the evening, a couple flees their apartment for speck pasta and romantic candlelight at Bugatti Café. From warm moussaka to homemade marinara sauce sopped up with a crusty slab of semolina bread, good grub has always been a neighborhood hallmark.

Yet in 2010 the Astoria and Long Island City culinary scene brightened even more, with the addition of welcoming eateries flaunting homemade desserts, killer beer lists and farm-fresh produce. The beloved Vesta uses locally sourced ingredients whenever possible (kudos to the modern Italian restaurant for recently introducing a pop-up farmers’ market manned by the crew from Brooklyn Grange). A few of this year’s new kids on the block build upon that commitment, showing how shopping for greenmarket goods—and championing thoughtful eating—has become more prevalent among Queens foodies.

Five restaurants—Astor Bake Shop, Bugatti Café, Burger Garage, LIC Market and MexiQ—are among the 2010 additions to Astoria and Long Island City’s expanding culinary scene. Here’s what we love about them:

MexiQ Kitchen & Draught

MexiQ Nachos!

MexiQ in Astoria

When Dimitri Paloumbis of Break and Don Philippou of Cavo opened MexiQ, a Mexican-accented BBQ joint, they hoped people wouldn’t just eat a taco and run. “We want MexiQ to become a place guests will make part of their weekly routine,” notes Paloumbis. Beer, it seems, is the perfect complement to consulting chef Julietta Balesteros’ cuisine, which includes Adobo-rubbed ribs and Mexican-style fried chicken. Paloumbis noticed how popular the 18 lines of craft ales are at Break, and expanded the concept. MexiQ offers 48 different beers on draught; “We have temperature-controlled dispensers that ensure each one is poured at 32 degrees so it’s nice and cold.” Brunch includes unlimited pours of Mexican beer. A monthly dinner series pairs microbrews with special dishes.

Astor Bake Shop:

Astor Bake Shop Pizza Photo: Bradley Hawks

Astor Bake-Shop Sandwich Photo: Bradley Hawks

When Hell Gate Social first set roots in an out-of-the-way stretch of Astoria Boulevard five years ago, we were skeptical. But, propelled by friendly banter and affordable cocktails, the masses made it their watering hole anyhow. Now that Astor Bake Shop’s moved in next-door, the scene here is vibrant even during the daylight hours. Every morning, the talented George McKirdy treats us to his fluffy biscuits and gooey sticky buns straight out of the oven. We dig the hearty specials—meatloaf sandwiches, corn-studded goat cheese quiche—paired with artisanal coffee. But we especially love how McKirdy’s managed to elevate the simple egg sandwich with his rendition, served on a house-made Portuguese roll. McKirdy’s dedication to fresh ingredients delights the hardworking gardeners of nearby Two Coves Community Garden (where McKirdy gets the mint for his iced tea), craving a snack before picking up a shovel. It also points to a larger trend: the locavore movement taking hold in Queens.

Bugatti Café:

Bugatti Cafe

“There are old, traditional Italian restaurants in the neighborhood, and there are new, funky ones, but we’re taking a no-nonsense approach instead,” says Jason Arcaro, an Astoria resident of 13 years and GM of Bugatti Café, just off 31st Avenue. The owners themselves designed the space, and Arcaro loves its hushed, intimate appeal. The same attention to detail has gone into Bugatti Café’s menu. The chef, a native of Parma, churns out simple, authentic dishes like homemade taglierini pasta and roasted veal and spinach ravioli. There’s even an Italian-inspired burger, nestled in a brioche roll and topped with a sliver of Parmigiano-Reggiano. But we might be most excited about the generous $14.95 brunch, which includes coffee, mimosa and dessert to accompany our steak and eggs. Once the warm weather hits, and Bugatti opens its glass doors to the sidewalk, we predict many a Sunday afternoon holding court at a table here.

Burger Garage:

The Burger Garage

The Burger Garage Photo: Javier Ibañez

If we’re going to splurge on a burger, it better be a quality one. Brothers Jim and Adam Pileski feel the same way. And that’s why they opened old-timey Burger Garage, where you can pull up a stool and watch your burger—100% Black Angus USDA-certified beef ground daily by butcher Pat LaFrieda—sizzle on the grill. The space resembles a modern-day filling station, and the amiable cook is willing to chat. There’s nothing fast about the food here: produce is farm-fresh and the French fries, made with Idaho potatoes, are hand-cut. The red and black booths and Abita root beer on tap invite lingering. But Burger Garage is also a good stop for a quick, filling lunch.

LIC Market:

LIC Market Photo: Philippe Trinh

Schindler at LIC Market is another chef who takes the sustainability credo to heart.
Community building plays a large role in how we choose to operate our restaurant. Whether it’s buying from local farms, being a distribution point for a local CSA or featuring a local artist’s work on our walls, it is very important to us to play a role in making LIC a great place to live and work.
He’s hoping LIC Market becomes a destination for folks in other boroughs, and his formula is already working. Loyalists come to eat sweet and sour kale and shredded brisket sandwiches, and shop at the market. Schindler created a homespun mini-grocery in the front of the restaurant, stocked with house-pickled Serrano peppers and other treats made in the kitchen.

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MexiQ
(718) 626-0333
37-11 30th ave, astoria
www.mexiqny.com
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Astor Bake Shop
(718) 606-8439
12-23 Astoria Blvd, Astoria
www.astor-bakeshop.com
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Bugatti Cafe
(718) 626-1115
31-05 34th st, Astoria
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Burger Garage
(718) 392-0424
25-36 Jackson Ave, LIC
www.theburgergarage.com
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LIC Market
(718) 361-0013
21-52 44th dr, LIC
www.licmarket.com